Camino de Santiago Day 19: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Puente Villarente
Every day is made up of multitudes of choices, though there is only one that matters: do you walk alone, or with others? I've decided I need to walk alone again for a bit, and I'm enjoying the reset.
How are you doing the Camino? (Part 2)
There are two modes of being: by yourself and with others.
Every day is made up of limitless choices – every step you take on the Camino you make a choice.
But ultimately there are two major ones: you either walk alone, or walk with others.
Although there is a geographical, historic and spiritual journey to undertake, the Camino is a trail, after all – and trails do not form from the top-down – whether insect, animal domesticated or wild or farmed, or human – a trail is something that is left behind, not built intentionally from the ground up.
Despite the waymarkers and yellow arrows, the Camino would not exist without the people who walk it. Whether you tackle it in high-season or low, meet many or few along the way, you would not be here or able to progress if others hadn’t done so before.
And so there is a particular energy to this trail that is inescapable.
Every choice you make along your journey has the potential for you to embark on an incredible adventure. The people are the greatest adventures of all, each one of them walking with a million stories or more inside them, like you.
And each person you choose to engage with you make a choice not to walk alone for that time – you share some of your soul with those you walk with.
The wonder of the Camino is that everyone is open to engagement, just as you are, so it’s just a matter of offering yourself to them, or accepting an invitation – don’t be afraid to accept.
In walking alone you are maintaining the independence of your soul, and every step you take is an assertion and cultivation of that independence – you return then to the world with something worth giving back to it: a more authentic version of you
Though the alternative is to offer part of it to someone else, or many others, for a while, for a few kilometres, for a whole day or the entire journey.
Which is a special thing in itself – a gift of giving yourself to the world. When we go out into the world, we lose some of ourselves, as John O’Donohue wrote. Though diminishment of our self is inevitable, it’s possible to at least make sure that it’s not done in vain. You can consciously choose who you give a part of yourself to, the result is an intentional gift of yourself.
This is what it means to give back to the community – and it does wonders for people you don’t even realise.
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Camino Day 19: Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Puente Villarente
This one felt like a small day. Distance-wise it was a long one: 30km. Nothing much happened though. Other days you could do 20 and it feels like you lived several lives. Depends who you bump into or what you get up to.
The first 18, 19, 20km was bliss.
All down to the great night’s sleep I’d got the night before. Going off the beaten path delivered. Via Trajana is an ancient Roman road. I stayed at the albergue of the same name in Calzadilla – more of a B&B really, at albergue prices. A hotel room with one other occupied bed. Towel and duvet, pretty much a private bathroom. Not too big a place. A gracious and prompt laundry service. And the hallways smelled like lavender, not like dried out socks and damp men.
What a difference a good night’s sleep made.
Another 18km stretch on a straight dusty road through bland, flat farmland. But it was thoroughly enjoyable. I did feel like I’d reclaimed my focus by intentionally leaving the crowds behind for a couple of nights. I walked with purpose, enjoying the walk for its own sake. Still looking forward to getting to Leon happy that it’d happen in good time – tomorrow.
Enjoying the switch-off and the reset as I have to admit I’d been burning the candle at both ends the previous few nights. As I walk I enjoy focusing on the way I walk and counting my breaths. Then I pay attention to the birds. I see a couple of fawns bouncing across the field in the distance. I understand why people don’t want to eat veal. Then I sing. Sometimes I’ve sung on the Camino out of boredom, and sometimes it’s been to distract or directly heal an injury, pain or niggle. Now I’m singing simply because it’s a joyful thing to do.
My repertoire has everything from the Saw Doctors to Dr. Dre in it, and I pass over an hour singing away to myself, sometimes just intuitively making noises with my mouth. I think I’m getting better at it. The first 4 hours of the day fly by. What a difference some peace and a good night’s sleep make.
I have lunch in Mansillas de las Mulas and decide to continue to the small suburban village of Puente Villarente. I’ve done 30km. I have dinner with an Israeli couple about the same age as my dad. They’re gently old souls and good company. They’ve done several Caminos and travelled all over the world. They’re not Christian – they’re non-practicing Jews – but they appreciate the format of the Camino.
“You have to walk from place to place. You can’t just hop on a bus or plane from highlight to highlight. You’ve to take the good with the bad, the so-called boring bits with the good bits.”
It’s just a healthy way to see the world, isn’t it.
They’re familiar with Ireland as well, and tell a funny story:
Once they were visiting friends in Northern Ireland. Someone asks them what religion they are.
“Well… we’re not Christians – we’re Jewish.”
The fella’s tone sharpens:
“Yeah but are ya Catholic or Protestant?!”
I erupt in laughter and tell him it sounds like a joke, though he assures me this actually happened to him.
I’m happy for another night of relative peace. I feel like I’ve reset enough. I’ve just 12km to go into Leon tomorrow – it almost feels like cheating. Tomorrow I’m back in The City. I’m ready for it now though.
The cycle continues.
If you’ve done the Camino, are thinking of doing it, or are just interested in discussing the Camino or travel in general - then please leave a comment. I’d love to hear from you.